The Four Seasons of Vintage

Modern Vintage

Roxanne Lowitt

Photo by Roxanne Lowit

I have been asked in recent days why I prefer blouses and pants to dresses. Looking in my closet at the dozen or more vintage blouses that hang there expectantly, I realize the attraction has to do with the endless possibility for play which separates afford. And so two weeks ago, I purchased a 1980s silk Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche blouse from an Ebay seller in St. Louis. Though the blouse wasn’t my size, it was love at first sight. I had been looking for a blue blouse and was confident that my tailor would be able to alter the blouse to fit. My only hesitation was over whether or not to keep the tie-neck. Though the style is a popular trend at the moment, I felt the blouse would look more timeless without the bow. (When I buy a vintage blouse and alter it, I like to think I will wear it for many years to come). Because of the asymmetrical button placket, my tailor suggested simply shortening the bow into a fold over collar with hidden snaps at the side of the neck. As you can see in the after photo, the blouse retains the elegance of a tie-neck collar but with a sportier air, a perfect formula for modern vintage style.

Before: 1980s Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche silk blouse with tie-neck

Before: 1980s Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche silk blouse with tie-neck

After: with a fold-over collar, re-cut shoulders and sleeves and body taken in

After: with a fold over collar and re-cut shoulders; sleeves and body taken in

Side detail - collar

Side detail – collar

 

 

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Personal Style

Cut, Sew, Stitch Part III

Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent, Loulou de la Falaise at the opening of the Saint Laurent Rive Gauche boutique in London, 1969 (Wesley/Getty Images)

Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent, and Loulou de la Falaise at the opening of the Saint Laurent Rive Gauche boutique in London, 1969 (Wesley/Getty Images)

A month ago I went downtown to A Current Affair, an impressive Los Angeles vintage fair, and came home with a vibrant purple Yves Saint Laurent blouse. It’s always risky going to vintage fairs where many dealers, both local and from around the country, congregate to offer up their collections. Because there is so much temptation and very little time to think, a vintage fair can be a day of mixed emotions: from the joyful high you feel coming away with that one of a kind item, to the sorrowful regret you experience over holding back and returning home empty-handed. In my case, the happiness I felt buying an Yves Saint Laurent garment, was slightly blunted by the fact that I would need to remove the necktie in order to make the blouse modern and wearable. And so, the day after the fair, I planned a visit to my tailor.

Before: Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, early 1980s silk blouse from Siren Vintage LA

Before: Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, early 1980s silk blouse from Siren Vintage LA

After: with recut neckline, body and sleeves taken in

After: with recut neckline and shoulder pads removed; body and sleeves taken in

Though I’ve stood in my tailor’s studio many times over the years, contemplating what changes to make to a garment, this YSL blouse was different. Because of the removal of the necktie, a new neckline with a trim had to be constructed. Despite the fact that the necktie could still be worn as a type of scarf with the blouse and the original buttons and pleating remained intact, I felt a slight twinge of guilt at altering the 80s design. But through the process of disassembly, I came to see the blouse as something regenerated, a garment that enfolds the original while having a separate life from it. More than likely, in its original form, my blouse would have remained an inspiration garment for fashion designers, stored away in a studio –  frozen in time without a chance at a second life in a new setting.

I don’t think I’m kidding myself when I say that Saint Laurent himself would have approved of the transformation process – his Rive Gauche line was fundamentally about  experimentation and creativity. In a 1972 interview he explained his philosophy this way: “With ready-to-wear you can play around with the many parts of clothes and change them. In couture you can’t play with clothes.” After all, cutting and sewing is at heart about play and repurposing. Or put another way, it’s about the spirit of the idea taking flight.

 

 

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